From Meiji Tradition to the Future: Visiting Nitta Tea Factory in Shirakawa, Gifu

Hiroko Yamada
2026-04-17T13:19:30+09:00

Discover Shirakawa tea, one of Japan’s rarest green teas, grown in the mountains of Gifu. This article explores Nitta Tea Farm’s tradition, deep-steaming techniques, and evolving approach to modern tea production.

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What is Shirakawa Tea? A Rare Japanese Green Tea from Gifu

Shirakawa, a small town in Gifu Prefecture, is surrounded by mountains and often covered in mist. In this unique environment, Shirakawa tea has been cultivated for over 400 years.

Grown at elevations between 200 and 600 meters, the tea benefits from a cool climate and significant temperature differences between day and night. These conditions create a tea with a refined aroma and deep, rich flavor. Production accounts for less than 0.1% of Japan’s total, making it one of the rarest tea regions in the country.

The first harvest (shincha) begins after early May—one of the latest in Japan. This slow growth contributes to the tea’s depth and complexity.

The History of Nitta Tea Factory

Founded in 1911, Nitta Tea Farm has been cultivating tea for over a century.

While preserving its heritage, the farm has gradually evolved to adapt to modern demands.

Traditionally, farmers in this region sold fresh leaves to cooperatives. However, under the leadership of current CEO Tetsuya Nitta, the farm shifted to an integrated model—handling cultivation, processing, and sales in-house.

Cultivation and Craftsmanship: Yabukita and Beyond

The farm primarily grows the Yabukita cultivar, along with Meiryoku, Okumidori, and Tsuyuhikari.

Soil health is a key focus, using organic fertilizers and compost. They also practice a cultivation method known as "gajū-gata" (芽重型) — a technique that deliberately limits the number of buds per plant. Rather than maximizing yield, the goal is to concentrate energy into fewer, higher-quality shoots, resulting in a more refined flavor.

Unlike typical kabusecha, which is shaded for around 15 days, Nitta Tea Farm limits shading to 7–10 days to balance aroma and flavor.

In processing, they use a deep-steaming method (fukamushi), which reduces grassy notes and produces a smoother, fuller-bodied tea.

Rather than harvesting based on timing alone, they determine the harvest period by working backward from the desired tea quality—a highly intentional, quality-driven approach.

Adapting to Climate Change with Deep-Steamed Tea

Traditionally, Shirakawa tea was lightly steamed. However, changing climate conditions have made it more difficult to maintain consistent quality using this method.

To address this, Nitta Tea Farm has transitioned toward deep-steamed tea production, adapting both cultivation and processing techniques.

This flexibility reflects a broader shift in modern tea-making—responding to environmental changes while maintaining quality.

I had the chance to try the Premium Sencha myself. It's clean and refreshing, yet carries a quiet, lingering depth. Having visited the farm and heard Mr. Nitta speak about his passion for the craft, each sip brought back the mountain scenery and his quiet dedication to every leaf.

Nitta Seicha Imperial Sencha

Nitta Seicha Premium Sencha

Nitta Tea Factory Premium Hojicha

Nitta Seicha Premium Karigane

Expanding Beyond Tea: Sweets and Kombucha

Beyond tea production, Nitta Tea Farm has expanded into product development.

Their lineup includes green tea cakes, cream-filled daifuku, canelé, and kombucha made from green tea and hojicha.

This shift accelerated during the COVID-19 pandemic, when the business moved from bulk and ceremonial gift demand to direct sales and a café-style retail approach.

With modern packaging designed by local creatives, their products are now supplied to international hotels, reflecting a growing global presence.

Challenges Facing the Tea Industry

Like many tea regions in Japan, Shirakawa faces challenges such as an aging workforce and a shortage of successors.

In response, local producers have formed initiatives to sustain the region’s future.

At the same time, market dynamics are shifting, with rising raw material prices and increasing global demand influencing the industry.

The Future of Japanese Tea

“We face many challenges, but tea farming is deeply rewarding,” says Nitta.
“It connects us to nature and allows us to express the character of this land. We hope more people will take an interest and join us in the future.”

While global interest in Japanese tea continues to grow, exporting remains complex due to strict regulations in markets such as the EU.

Still, the commitment to quality and innovation remains strong.

From a tradition that began in the Meiji era to a future shaped by change, Nitta Tea Farm continues to evolve—rooted in the same land, yet always moving forward.

Experience the clean and refined character of mountain-grown Shirakawa tea, carefully crafted by Nitta Tea Factory.

Learn more about their teas here:
→ Nitta Tea Factory